My wife, Mary Ann, hated the backsplash tiles in our kitchen, and I agreed they were slightly dated. Unfortunately, the crackled glass that we wanted to replace them with was amazingly expensive: $17 per square foot (more than $500 for the 30 sq. ft. that we would need). So I did what any good husband would do—I stalled.

Related: 11 Backsplashes for a Unique Kitchen

But one day, while she was at work, I decided to do a little experiment. I applied a mixture of primer, glaze and artist’s oils to some spare tiles to see if I could create a faux stone finish that would give the existing tiles a fresh new look—at little to no cost. And it worked!

Here’s a step-by-step of how I created the look:

Step 1: Run a palm sander with a fine, 220-grit disk over the backsplash to roughen up the existing tiles. Clean the surface with a TSP substitute.

Step 2: Using a 6-inch foam roller, apply three coats of pigment shellac-based primer (I can recommend B-I-N by Zinsser); allow at least 45 minutes dry time between coats.

Step 3: To create the faux, mottled coloration you will need to purchase tubes of artist’s oil paints. I used Payne’s Grey (a bluish grey), Raw Umber, and Zinc White (about $6-$7 per tube) to get my Tuscan stone look. You will also need to purchase a clear alkyd glaze, similar to what you would use to create a faux wall finish (Benjamin Moore’s #409 00 is a good choice at $14 per quart.)

Step 4: In a disposable aluminum tray, mix a quarter-size dollop of the grey oil paint with a half-cup of glaze and test it on a part of the backsplash hidden from view (like behind the range). When you find a mixture that gives you about a 30 percent tint, wipe a coat over the entire backsplash using a cotton rag. Don’t worry about whether some gets on the grout; the joints will be colored.

Step 5. While the first coat is drying, mix the Raw Umber and glaze in the same ratio as above. Beginning where you started the first coat, apply the umber-glaze mixture with a balled-up rag. Use a stamping motion to allow about 25 percent of the first coat to show through. The folds in the rag will produce the random, mottled look of marble. If you don’t like the way your first attempts look, wipe it off with a rag dampened in turpentine and try again.

Step 6: You can create a stippled look by mixing the grey oil paint and glaze in a 50-50 ratio and apply with an old toothbrush. A fine, thin brush with long bristles will be best for veining.

Step 7:  The last step is to paint the grout. The product I used—Polyblend’s Grout Renew—is both a colorant and sealer. If you can’t find a premixed color that you like, buy the white and tint it yourself. Use artist’s acrylic paint, not oils, with water-based grout sealer.

The total cost of the project came to about $60, with half of that being a quart of shellac-based primer. Even better, it was done in 5 hours and in time for dinner!

Source: https://www.bobvila.com/articles/backsplash-ideas/

Professional Carpet Cleaning Service in Arlington Texas From Beginning to End.

We offer carpet cleaning, upholstery cleaning, Tile and Grout cleaning as well as Water Restoration.

We service: Dallas/Fort Worth Metroplex, Arlington, Mansfield, Grand Prairie, Kennedale, Fort Worth, Cedar Hill, Desoto, Euless, Bedford, Hurst, North Richland Hills, Southlake, Grapevine, Coppell, Irving, Lewisville, Colleyville, White Settlement, Cleburne, Waxahachie, Red Oak and many other surrounding cities.

No amount of candy corn can make up for the moment you realize that your carefully carved pumpkin’s smile has turned into a rotting grimace just as the trick-or-treaters start showing up at the door. The freshest pumpkin is carved October 31, so if you are tempted to start the festivities earlier, follow these tips to make sure there will still be a plump pumpkin to greet the neighborhood kids once the big day arrives.

With a keyhole saw, either take off the top of the pumpkin (best if you intend to put a candle inside), or make a hole in the back. Then dig out the pumpkin pulp with a scraping tool—a spoon can do, but it helps to have something with a sharp edge or teeth. Be sure to remove one hundred percent of the pumpkin guts. Carve the gourd by affixing a stencil and using an awl—or another thin, sharp tool—to outline the pattern with small holes before cutting. Then dig in carefully with a miniature saw or sharp knife to complete the Jack-o’-Lantern’s face. Even a drill can double as a carving tool—use a ½ inch or ¾ spade bit for making the eyes.

Once you’ve got the perfect ghoulish grin, the preserving process begins. Joyce Martin Demchak, a floral design instructor with the New York Botanical Garden Adult Education Program (and pumpkin expert) suggests drying the pumpkin interior using a paper towel. “Carving the pumpkin exposes it to the air, and to bacteria, which is what causes pumpkin rot,” says Joyce.

To delay the eventual decay, spray all open surfaces with bleach (an adult, not child-appropriate task), including the edges of its face and the bottom of the lid. If you don’t have a spray bottle, Joyce says that you can paint the bleach on with a craft brush. After bleach application, blot again with the paper towel to catch any residual moisture, then start smearing petroleum jelly—just a thin layer—on the interior, the cut-out spots, and the lid. The jelly provides a barrier to keep bacteria from reaching the flesh. Finally, set out Jack with a candle (which is safe to use despite the Vaseline) or use Christmas lights wrapped around a jar.

Photo: KStansley

Depending on what part of the world you’re from you may have heard sink disposals referred to as “garbage disposals,” “food waste disposers,” or, if you’re really proper, a “sink waste disposal unit.” Whatever you call it, switching one out or installing a new one is a fairly simple task.

Photo: Kit Stansley

GETTING STARTED
There are essentially four connection points for a sink disposal:
– Where the disposal connects to the sink, under the drain
– Where the drain line connects to the disposal to remove water/waste
– Where the disposal connects to power
– Optionally, where the dishwasher connects to the disposal

The most important things to know are how the disposal gets power (either through a plug or direct connection) and whether or not you need a dishwasher line connected to the disposal.

MATERIALS AND TOOLS Available on Amazon
– Garbage disposal unit
– Outlet connection kit (if the disposal needs to be plugged into an outlet)
– Screwdrivers
– Hammer
– Plumber’s putty
– Putty knife
– One “self-service wrenchette” (included with disposal, and no, I’m not making this up)

I think this “wrenchette” answers the age old question of whether or not tool manufacturers have a sense of humor!

INSTALLATION

To prep your unit for installation, you may have to attach a cord with a plug to reach the outlet, or extension wires to reach a hardwired box. In this case, I attached a cord with a plug kit that I bought separately from the disposal unit. It’s as simple as feeding the wires from the cord through the disposal and attaching them to the matching colors on the unit with wire nuts.

If you have to hardwire the unit, wait until it’s installed under the sink. Note: It’s probably a good idea to shut off power at the breaker now, so as to avoid forgetting to shut it off later. If there’s anything worse than being shocked by a live wire, it’s being shocked by a live wire while under a sink.

If there’s an existing disposal, use the handy self-service wrenchette to disengage the old unit from the bottom of the sink. It will fit in the holes on bottom piece of the bracket. Twist the bottom piece clockwise while supporting the bottom to get it free.

Photo: Kit Stansley

Step 2: Dishwasher Punch Out Option
This is not something you do with a misbehaving machine, but it’s a very crucial step if you have a dishwasher and you want it to work. If you don’t have a dishwasher you can skip directly to Step 3. For everyone else, there’s a little plug inside the dishwasher connection which needs to be punched out with a screwdriver and hammer. Again, only do this if you are attaching a line from a dishwasher at the time of installation.

Photo: Kit Stansley

Step 3: Installing the Drain 
If there was an existing disposal attached to the sink already, it’s likely that the new unit will fit the existing bracket. If not—or if there is no disposal currently in place—start by removing the old drain. Most drains are attached to the sink by a large nut underneath the sink that can be turned counter-clockwise to loosen.

Installing the new drain is a simple matter: First, create a snake out of plumber’s putty and circle the drain from the top. Then install the top half of the drain from the top, and screw the nut and mounting bracket on from underneath. Make sure to remove any excess plumber’s putty using a putty knife.

Step 4: Installing New Unit
Position the unit so the existing pipes/hoses line up, and then use your self-service wrenchette to move the bottom piece of the mounting bracket counter-clockwise until tight.

Then attach the waste pipe (and dishwasher hose, if applicable).  If your unit is outlet-ready—pay attention to this part—make sure your disposal switch is in the “off” position before you plug the new unit in. While it’s unlikely that having a disposal start up while your head is pressed against it will lead to decapitation, it may scare a couple of years off your life. Not that I would know from experience.

If you need to hardwire the unit, make sure the power is off to the box (I recommend shutting it off at the breaker) and then attach the wires to the corresponding color using wire nuts.

Once the unit is plugged or wired in, turn the breaker back on, run the water and have fun chopping food waste to bits!

Source: https://www.bobvila.com/articles/how-to-install-a-sink-disposal/

Professional Carpet Cleaning Service From Beginning to End.

We offer carpet cleaning, upholstery cleaning, Tile and Grout cleaning as well as Water Restoration.

We service: Dallas/Fort Worth Metroplex, Arlington, Mansfield, Grand Prairie, Kennedale, Fort Worth, Cedar Hill, Desoto, Euless, Bedford, Hurst, North Richland Hills, Southlake, Grapevine, Coppell, Irving, Lewisville, Colleyville, White Settlement, Cleburne, Waxahachie, Red Oak and many other surrounding cities.

The Virtues of Drywall 
Drywall has been the wall finishing material of choice for most of a century because it’s so easy to install and finish. Another of its virtues is that when it’s damaged, it’s easy to repair. For scratches or small dents, a quick swipe of joint compound with a 3- or 4-inch putty knife and a bit of sanding before priming and painting will do fine. For small holes up to 3 inches, self-adhesive plastic mesh tape and then a coat or two of patching compound will work. For medium-sized holes between 4 and 6 inches, try a drywall bandage.

Patching Drywall
Check to make sure there is no electrical wiring in the area first, then use a keyhole saw to cut the hole into a neat square or rectangle. Transfer that shape onto a piece of new drywall, add 2-inch margins and cut out the larger patch piece. Trim off the back and gypsum in the 2-inch margin but leave the face paper uncut. Spread patching compound around the outside edges of the hole and press the bandage into it, feathering the edges. Let it dry. Then sand and re-coat with compound. Finally, sand again, prime and paint.

Patching Large Holes
For really big holes, you can use the tie and twist bracing method. Cut a piece of drywall or a length of 2×4 a few inches larger than the hole. Drill two small holes in the center and loop a 2-foot string through it like a button. Tie the ends around the middle of a stick. Apply adhesive to the back edges of the hole inside the wall. Adhere the patch piece and twist the stick from your side of the wall until it holds tight. Then, fill the remaining space with drywall patch pieces and mesh tape. Finish with compound as usual, cutting the string and pulling it out just before it dries.

Patching Super-Size Holes
For super-large holes bigger than a foot wide, cut the drywall back to the two nearest studs and expose them halfway. Cut a new panel of drywall to fit and attach it as you normally would with drywall screws, joint compound, and tape.